[Ebook] Encyclopedia of Aquarium & Pond Fish – Introduction to Marine Fish – Setting up the tank – Sitting and substrate

Introduction to Marine Fish

Setting up the tank

Sitting and substrate

There are no firm rules about where to position a marine aquarium in the home, but following a few simple guidelines will help maximize the health of the fish and ensure human safety. The choice of substrate (such as gravel or sand) greatly influences the overall appearance of the tank and is more than just cosmetic. Substrate composition directly affects water chemistry and so influences the long-term welfare of the fish.

Positioning the tank

Aquariums should never be moved if they contain water, sand, or gravel because their great weight makes them prone to shattering. The larger the tank, the longer it takes to empty and strip down for moving; so for marine aquariums, which tend to be larger than their freshwater counterparts, getting the location right the first time is particularly important.

As a general rule, set up the tank in the room where you spend most time, and position it at eye level for the best views of the fish. Taller tanks provide eye-level interest whether seated or standing and are a good choice for compact rooms where there is space only for a tank with a small base. Support the aquarium on a specially built stand or cabinet; if you use an existing piece of furniture, make sure it is strong enough to take the weight of the filled tank and will not be damaged by spillages. Allow enough space around the tank for routine maintenance—you should be able to reach all inner and outer surfaces of the glass without stretching.

Avoid placing the aquarium where it will be exposed to direct sunlight, because you will then lose control over the light intensity and temperature in the tank. Water and electricity don’t mix, so it is essential to keep cabling short and neat; avoid using messy extensions and always consult a professional electrician if you have any doubts about your system. Never plug pumps or filters into switched outlets—it is all too easy inadvertently to flip the wrong wall switch and shut off the tank’s life support systems.

Substrate matters

The substrate in a marine aquarium is not just for decoration. Some fish, such as jawfish (see p.282), like to burrow, so the sand or gravel used must be of a suitable texture. The substrate is also important in maintaining water chemistry; thanks to its calcium carbonate content, it acts as a buffer, helping to counter the progressive acidification of the water . And, when an undergravel filter is used, the substrate also serves as a filter bed (see p.211). In this case, the size and depth of the substrate particles are key; the substrate needs to be deep enough to be effective as a filter, and water must be able to pass between the particles. Usually, the filter plate is covered with a layer of coarse material (see below), such as crushed coral, shell, or dolomite chips (all of which are high in calcium carbonate). Coral sand or aragonite sand is then laid on top of this to create a more natural appearance.

FILTER AND SUBSTRATE

Most marine aquaria are fitted with an undergravel filter, in addition to a power filter. The filter medium is the substrate itself—typically, crushed coral or shell, covered with finer coral sand—which becomes colonized by beneficial aerobic bacteria. A mesh net called a gravel tidy separates the two layers, thus maintaining the flow of water through the filter bed. Always buy prepared substrate from a reputable aquarium dealer, and check it thoroughly for foreign bodies, such as fragments of plastic, metal, and glass, before placing it in the tank.

1. Place the tank on sponge matting Wash out the tank to remove dust or glass spicules. Glass aquariums need to be rested on special sponge matting to absorb any unevenness in the surface beneath.
2. Fit the undergravel filter Lay the corrugated plastic of the filter plate, with uplift tube attached, on the base of the tank. The plate can be cut to size and should cover the whole base area.
3. Add coarse substrate Place a layer of calcareous substrate— washed in aquarium disinfectant and well rinsed—onto the filter plate to a depth of about 2 in (5 cm), and spread it out evenly.
4. Fit the gravel tidy Lay the mesh net over the coarse substrate layer, turning the edges down. This will prevent the sand from sinking and filling in the spaces between the coarser grains.
5. Cover with coral sand Pour fine coral sand onto the mesh to a depth of about 1 in (2.5 cm). Shape the sand layer to the desired form, typically sloping it forward toward the front of the tank.

DECORATIVE BACKDROPS

A tank’s inlet and outlet tubes are rather unsightly but are easily hidden behind a backdrop, stuck to the outside rear of the tank. Commercially available backdrops made from fade-resistant, waterproof plastics feature all sorts of images, from reef scenes, which create a good illusion of depth, to tropical beaches and even lunar landscapes.

SITING TIPS

• Keep the tank clear of heaters, air-conditioning units, and windows. Sudden changes in temperature can be lethal to fish.
• Be prepared to rearrange the room decor to display the tank to best effect.
• Consider how easy it will be to service the tank.
• Place the tank on a completely level surface.

DECORATIVE BACKDROPS

A tank’s inlet and outlet tubes are rather unsightly but are easily hidden behind a backdrop, stuck to the outside rear of the tank. Commercially available backdrops made from fade-resistant, waterproof plastics feature all sorts of images, from reef scenes, which create a good illusion of depth, to tropical beaches and even lunar landscapes.

[Ebook] Encyclopedia of Aquarium & Pond Fish – David Alderton (Photo by Max Gibbs)